2017 Hyland Vineyard - Riesling

Decanter Review: 96 Points
Tasted by: Charles Curtis MW (at Oregon, 30 Jun 2022)
A superb Riesling by any measure, this balances mature notes of petrol and lime peel with fresh apricot, nectarines and honeysuckle. Dry but round, the wine is crisp and marvellously concentrated. It is produced from a clonal selection brought from Alsace and planted in 1971 in the thin volcanic soils of this north-facing site. In 2017, botrytis affected about 10% of the crop, giving it a slightly exotic character. This wine should continue to age and improve for years to come. Truly impressive. 1.7 g/L residual sugar, pH of 3.09
 
tasting notes
citrus, spring flowers, honey, flint—substantial weight, electric, dry, lengthy, mouth-watering—very youthful
 
ava McMinnville
elevation 600 feet
aspect north, low angle slope
soil volcanic (jory series)
vine age planted 1973, self-rooted
clonal selection "Coury" selection from Alsace
farming Dry-Farmed, Organic management
harvest October 18, 2017
bottled May 4, 2018
cases produced 180
 
the Terroir
Hyland vineyard is one of the Willamette Valley's historic vineyards, having been planted in the early 1970s with clonal selections of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot noir that originated in Alsace. These vines are now referred to as "Coury" selections‒after Charles Coury, who sourced the cuttings. The 45-year-old, own-rooted Riesling vines are deeply rooted in Jory soil (volcanic basalt) and are farmed organically and without irrigation. Hyland is situated on the shoulder of the van duzer gap,the "air-conditioning" pathway through the Coast Range where marine air enters from the west and cools the Willamette Valley. Persistent wind spills over this neighborhood, moderating temperatures and allowing for patient ripening and retention of fresh acidity. Noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) reliably sets in weeks before harvest in this old block of Riesling, dehydrating the grapes, concentrating sugars and contributing to aromatic complexity and textural weight. Hyland is undoubtedly one of Oregon's crown jewels for Riesling.
 
the Growing Season
The Winter of 2017 brought a deluge of rain and the Spring was cool and wet, delaying bud break and then flowering. the Summer was generally dry and warm, sometimes hot. Critically, the Autumn returned to seasonably cool temps and several cycles of rain recharged the soil and refreshed the vines without causing significant rot issues. we began harvesting in the Willamette Valley on September 28 (Gewurztraminer) and finished with Gamay on October 30, two-to-three weeks later than average. The wines already display a wonderful balance of finesse, definition, generosity and depth, and they will certainly achieve greater subtlety over many years in the cellar.
 
notes on Winemaking
Botrytis cinerea‒"noble rot"‒affected 10% of all clusters. After an early morning pick, the grapes were de-stemmed and cold-macerated for 4 days prior to pressing to achieve maximum aromatic intensity and textural weight. Vinification took place in breathable Flextank. Aged on the lees for 6 months. Bottled May 4: TA 8.2—pH 3.09—Malic acid 2.98 g/L—Residual Sugar 1.7 g/L—Alc 13.1%

about Martin Woods
Our winery is secluded in the wooded foothills of oregon's coast range, within the mcminnville ava. We farm and partner with exceptional, late-ripening vineyards in Oregon to produce Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Gruner Veltliner and Rosé. We strive to make wine in the vineyard, to produce distinctive wines with an authentic sense-of-place. To this end we raise much of our wine in oregon oak barrels (Quercus garryana) locally harvested, air-dried and coopered. Our wines are sought after for their graceful balance, textural depth, expressive aromas and long-aging potential    —Evan Martin